Winterizing Sea Dragon

 

Winter in our area means a couple of snows and 3 months of below freezing weather at night. Winterization for us includes hauling, winterizing the fresh water system, and winterizing the engine. We haul Sea Dragon during the first  week of December and launch in mid to late March. This way we are on the hard only about 4 months each year.

The list of winterizing activities include:

  1. Drain the water tanks
  2. Drain the water lines
  3. Drain the water heater
  4. Drain & flush holding tank
  5. Winterize the head
  6. Winterize the Air Conditioner
  7. Change Engine Oil
  8. Change V-drive Oil
  9. Replace all fuel filters
  10. Top off fuel tank
  11. Stabilize fuel
  12. Fog engine
  13. Flush raw water system  (Engine)
Over the years I have tried several approaches to winterize the fresh water system. I have never liked the idea of filling the lines with the "pink" fresh water anti-freeze. It leaves a strange taste / smell in the system and stains everything.

I also learned, the hard way, if I wait too long to drain the system it will freeze. Sea Dragon's fresh water lines that run along the hull just below deck well above the water line and they are susceptible to freezing and breaking if we have a couple of days of 20 something degree weather.

So I usually winterize the fresh water system, head and air conditioner in early November and the engine in late November or early December just before hauling

 		 .

Sea Dragon's Fresh Water System
        Winterizing the Fresh Water System

The first step is to drain the fresh water tanks. To do this I remove the charcoal filter (throw it away), drain the container, empty and clean the strainer. Next I drain the hot water heater.
To drain the hot water heater, I simply remove the drain plug located near the cold water inlet, then open the pressure relief valve.  The water can be drained into a bucket and dumped overboard.
Next the output line is removed from the filter and using a few plastic fittings and increasing diameter hose(s), I connect the line to output side of the foot pump for our Avon dinghy.
Once the connected, I can place the pump just outside the companion way. Beginning with the sink in the head, I open the cold water facet and pump air through the system forcing any and all water from the lines... It is easy to hear the water or air being forced out the facet while standing in the companion way..

I close the sink facet and repeat the process for the shower and then the galley sink.

Then repeat the same process for the hot water lines.
Next comes the head. In this case I do use the "Pink Fresh Water Anti-freeze".

I begin by closing the seacock to the Head. Next the line feeding the AC is removed and a short piece of hose is connected and placed in a gallon bottle of anti-freeze. Then I operate the head until a full gallon has been pumped through the system.

This process is repeated for the Air Conditioner.
 

Next comes the task of changing the Fuel Filter and Bleeding the big Red Beast
   

I begin by collecting the necessary tools and parts.

- 5/8 open end & Box end wrench
- 5/16 inch open end & box end wrench
- 2 large zip lock bags (1 gallon)
- Roll of paper towels
- New fuel filter (Fram C119)

Replacing the fuel secondary filter can be a messy process on Sea Dragon but it is scheduled for replacement every 50 hour of usage or each season. So it must be done.

The first step is to take a large zip lock bag (the stiff top makes it easier to work around the filter) put a wad of paper towels in the bottom of the bag then slip it around the filter.

Next remove bolt #3 and drop the filter and base into the bag. The paper towels will prevent the fuel from spilling out of the bag.

Remove the base #9, seal the bag, and dispose of properly.
Replacing the Secondary Filter

Begin by drying and cleaning the base, the O-ring seat in the base (#9) and the top (#2) O-ring seat. Next re-assemble the secondary filter noting that the LARGER O-ring should be placed in the top (#2).

Finally, the fuel system must be bled... This can be a messy job if care is not taken.

The bleeding process is outlined below.
There are four basic steps plus one optional step. Each is detailed below.

1. Bleed fuel line from Racor to secondary filter

2. Bleed secondary filter

3. Bleed fuel injector pump

4. Bleed high pressure lines

5. Cross fingers (hope you did right the first time)

Start engine.
   Begin by placing a wad of paper towels in the second zip lock bag and placing it around the fuel filter as high as possible. This time the bag should fit loosely and as high as possible on the filter. This will catch the large amount of fuel that will be pumped from the filter.

First bleed the air from the portion of the fuel line from the Racor to the secondary filter. To do this, pump the lift pump for approx 1 minute. Note: move the pump lever up and down using slow, smooth full strokes at the rate of one stroke per second.

Next, bleed the air from the new filter by first loosing the banjo bolt shown at the right. Using the pump lever, pump until the filter is free of all air. This takes some time, so pump until NO AIR bubbles can be seen.. I am always surprised how much fuel will be pumped into the catch bag.

Once the air is expelled tighten the banjo bolt, remove the bag, seal, and dispose of properly.

Note Bleed point 1 on Sea Dragon is located on the fuel pressure sensor (see small picture above)

 Now the fuel injector pump must be bled. I begin with a hand full of paper towels

Beginning with bleed point #1, open the 5/16 inch bleed point (a needle valve). Place the wad of paper towels around the open bleed point. Once again, I surprised how much and how far the fuel will spray if not stopped by the towels.

Once again with steak slow strokes, bleed all air from point #1 (don't fooled by the first signs of fuel, PUMP until NO AIR comes out).

Close the Bleed point #1, CAUTION use care the bleed assembly is easily broken (see below).

Now, open Bleed Point #2 and repeat the bleeding process. This step always takes longer than I expect, so do not be fooled by the first sign of fuel.. Do it right.

Take your time!!!! Be Careful!

Westerbeke used two different bleed screw assemblies on the W40. The broken one on the left has threads of 1/4 inch by 28 and is the most difficult to find if a replacement is needed. And the one on the right is 3/8 by 28 thread and is the most common.

Oh by the way.... $30.00

 

 

In case of an emergency I found an
allen screw that matches the thread size.
I have cut the screw to length and I keep it in my spare parts kits as a backup.

Above you can see the assembly and how it works

Back to bleeding the engine.

Now with all fuel wiped up, it is time for the final step.

Loosen the high pressure lines leading to ALL four injectors... Do NOT remove ONLY about 1 or 2 turns. Place the paper towels around each open injector nut.

With the throttle in full open, use the starter to crank the engine until fuel spurts from each injector high pressure lines.

I place white paper towels around each loose nut and check for signs of fuel on the towel... The red dye in the marine fuel is easy to see from the companion way.

CAUTION: DO NOT crank the engine for long periods of time. Excessive cranking will cause the starter to over heat and will fill the exhaust with sea water.

Next retighten each of the four high pressure lines.

With the throttle still in the full open start the engine normally.. Several attempts may be needed... take your time.

 
Finally, the Oil is Changed

Once the engine starts, I let the Red Beast run for 5 - 10 minutes to insure that the system is properly bled. Once the engine has run without problem, I shut the engine down. At this time the engine, and the oil, is warm enough to change the oil. Sea Dragon's oil filter is mounted on the bulk head and easily reached.

  
To avoid making a mess, like with the fuel filters, a large zip lock bag is placed around the oil filter and oil absorbing cloth is placed below the oil filter to catch the oil that drips from the oil filter mount once the filter is removed. Next the filter is unscrewed dropped in the bag and the bag is sealed... It can then be disposed of properly at my leisure.
       Now I need get the oil out of the Beast. I have tried several methods. The drill mounted pump and hand pumps but I have fallen for the Moeller Oil Boy Fluid Extractor. It fits neatly in the space between the engine bed and the batteries, is easy to operate and is almost spill proof.

The plastic line is placed in the engine via the dip stick, making sure that the tube JUST touches the bottom of the oil pan. Finally, the Moeller Oil Boy is pumped 5-6 times to create a vacuum. I can then walk a way while it slowly removes all of the oil.

Now it is a simple matter of plugging the Oil Boy, and put 5 quarts of oil in the engine.

Finally, I start the engine and check the oil pressure gauge to insure everything OK and button everything up.

Once the engine has run for about 10 minutes, I close the seacock for the sea water intake. Then open the strainer, remove the basket, start the engine and pour anti-freeze in until it comes out of the exhaust... Shut down and the engine is ready for a winter alone.
One of the final step is to pour "pink antifreeze" into the bilge and sump shower/sink sump pump. Then pump the antifreeze out so that no water is left in the lines.

Return to the Projects Page 

Copyright © 2006 Garner Bennett. All Rights Reserved